We just happened to ring for a reservation on the evening when the restaurant Le Potager des Halles was hosting a once-off dinner prepared by regular chef Floriant Remont and his former colleague Sonia Ezgulian, who was visiting. Sonia's background was Armenian.
We were lucky enough to run into Sue and Des, a couple from Mt. Gambier who we had met the day before on the Hop-on, Hop-off bus. It was lovely to have some like-minded folk to chat with.
I was too busy talking to take a photograph of the restaurant, but little is lost. It was upstairs, hot, poorly ventilated with full white cloths, white china and cutlery that would not lay flat. You get the idea. But the chairs were very comfortable and the service was good.
We started with squid stuffed with citrus fruits and a vinaigrette of orange and pepper. At room temperature, it was light and tangy and quite unusual. Served with a cold, crisp chablis. Unfortunately, that staff were hesitant to actually present the wine. I don't know why.
Next up was the dish displayed on the front of the menu (above). Sardine and ginger tart with flowers and herbs. It was a disc of pastry with a mound of ginger and basil mouse, perfectly topped with fresh sardines and some tangy herbs. Served with a local white beaujolais.
Continuing the seafood theme, this next dish was quite unique. It was called 'Shellfish with chard' on the menu, but it was the most perfect braise of creamed celery I have ever tasted. It may have hard some very pale chard in it, but all I could see was celery and a few chopped pippies in a smooth, light, creamy sauce. Delicious with a beaujolais from Macon.
The next plate was red mullet with Iranian pistachios, artichoke, buffalo ricotta, beef jus and fresh peas. Red mullet is a wonderful, flavoursome large flaked fish and this piece was cooked to perfection. Served with a Corsican red that contained 'lots of sun', or so our waitress claimed. And yes, I forgot to take the photo so I included one of the chef holding what may have been our fish.
And finally the dessert, which was another winner. Sheets of meringue with fresh raspberries and whipped cream topped with drops of amaretto caramel and tangy little green herbs. It came with a Corsican moscato.
With coffee we were offered a spoonful of chef Sonia's speciality - an Armenian baklava, incredibly sweet and full of pistachios and honey, made in one huge tray. Impressive, even for someone who cringes at that level of sweetness.
All up, a well presented menu with good wines (although it would heave been helpful if they were prepared to promote their local brands) and excellent company.
And by the way, Sue and Des recommend this company that offers slightly different, small group tours Back Roads Touring if you are looking to planning something in Europe.
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