82. Gibraltar

Gibraltar is part of one of the most industrialised coastal areas in Europe. No trees or green spaces here - just wall to wall ships, tankers, refineries, chimneys, wire fences, concrete barriers, aeroplanes, runways, road ways and traffic, traffic, traffic.

Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory located on the southern end of the Iberian Peninsula at the entrance of the Mediterranean. It has an area of 6.7 km2 and shares its northern border with the Province of Cádiz in Andalusia, Spain. The Rock of Gibraltar is the major landmark of the region. At its foot is a densely populated city area, home to over 30,000 Gibraltarians and other nationalities.

An Anglo-Dutch force captured Gibraltar from Spain in 1704 during the War of the Spanish Succession. The territory was subsequently ceded to Britain "in perpetuity" under the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. It was an important base for the Royal Navy; today its economy is based largely on tourism, online gambling, financial services and shipping.

We queued in traffic for about an hour to enter Gibraltar.

Passing through this no man's land of palm trees and pleasure craft marina catering for cycle and foot traffic between Spain and Gibraltar.

Once through the passport check we are officially in Gibraltar but now queued at a red traffic light while a plane taxies, turns and then takes off across the road.  Green light - cars and foot traffic can crawl forward.

Crossing the runway.  I wasn't quick enough with my camera to get a photograph of the take-off because we were too many cars back from the barrier. But we certainly heard it.

Mr Intrepid  decided we'd try to drive up to the top of the rock rather than take the chair-lift.

We got about two thirds of the way up, but sections were beginning to close because it was early evening, and we could only go downwards from this point.  It is here where Queen Liz and (now Sir) Phil stood to gaze at the city on a visit in 1953. That was 62 years ago - can you believe it?

The city of Gibraltar below, all 6.7 km2 of it,  with Spain in the background.

Late afternoon sun looking south west across the Straight of Gibraltar.  You can see ships in dry dock in the foreground, a bay littered with large ships and Africa, probably Morocco on the horizon - far left.

Off the rock and through Spanish customs, we drove along the 'no man's land' route back to reality.  The rock had its own low, misty cloud in an otherwise cloudless 7.30 pm sky.

Next day we headed east along the coast of Andalusia towards Malaga.  Looking back, the rock had generated another cloud all its own. 

A potted history of Andalusia.  'Andalusia is an autonomous region of the Kingdom of Spain. It is the most populated and the second largest in area of the autonomous Spanish communities. 

Andalusia is the only European region with both Mediterranean and Atlantic coastlines. The small British overseas territory of Gibraltar shares a three-quarter-mile land border with the Andalusian province of Cádiz at the eastern end of the Strait of Gibraltar.

The name "Andalusia" is derived from the Arabic word Al-Andalus. As well as Muslim and Roman influences, the region's history and culture have been influenced by the earlier Iberians, Carthaginians, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Visigoths, Byzantines, all of whom preceded the Muslims, as well as the Castilian and other Christian North Iberian nationalities who regained and repopulated the area in the latter phases of the Reconquista.

Andalusia has been a traditionally agricultural region, compared to the rest of Spain and the rest of Europe. However, the growth of the population has been above average in Spain and higher than many communities in the eurozone. The region has, however, a rich culture and a strong cultural identity. Many cultural phenomena that are seen internationally as distinctively Spanish are largely or entirely Andalusian in origin. These include flamenco, bullfighting, and certain Moorish-influenced architectural styles.

Andalusia's interior is the hottest area of Europe, with cities like Córdoba and Seville averaging above 36 °C in summer. Late evening temperatures can sometimes stay around 35 °C at midnight, with daytime highs of over 40 °C common. Seville also has the highest average annual temperature in mainland Spain.

Driving north from Malaga.

Approaching Granada,  already at an altitude of 650 metres with the high Sierra Nevada in the distance.

81. Southern Spain - Cadiz

Well .... I'm not sure I can write much about Cadiz.  For a city that claims its origin to be a major centre for Phoenician and Roman trade and to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in Spain and one of the oldest in western Europe, it's got 'bugger all' left to show for it, and what it does have is in less than optimal condition.

Wiki describes Cádiz as 'an ancient port city in southwest Spain on a unique site, a narrow slice of land surrounded by the sea. It is characterised by the antiquity of its Old City which consists of narrow winding alleys connecting large plazas. A 16th-century base for exploration and trade, Cadiz has numerous watchtowers, traditionally used for spotting ships and an 18th-century waterfront cathedral with a golden dome.'

There is currently only one old, three lane bridge between the mainland and the old city of Cadiz.

A new bridge is almost ready. Called La Pepa Bridge, it will cross the Bay of Cádiz and link Cádiz with Puerto Real in mainland Spain. When the bridge is finished it will be both the longest and the longest span cable-stayed bridge in Spain.

The tall pylon you can see on the left of the photograph is one of a pair of electricity pylons of unusual design, one on either side of the Bay, used to support huge electric-power cables. The pylons are 158 meters high and designed for two circuits. The very unconventional construction consists of a narrow steel framework with one crossbar at the top of each onepylon for the insulators.

This is La Caleta beach, facing the Atlantic Ocean and located in the historical center of the city. It is a natural harbor and the landing point originally used by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians and Romans.

The harbour of La Caleta is guarded by two defensive structures, the half-bastions of San Sebastián and Santa Catalina.

Cadiz’s defences were rebuilt in 1596 following devastating attacks by the English.  'The most important part of the new fortifications were the two half-bastions that flanked the land gate. These bastions guarded the only land approach to Cadiz (via La Caleta beach) and this front was the most likely place of attack. The gate itself, none of which remains, stood in a curtain wall between the two bastions. '

Looking along the bastion wall, past one of many small watchtowers, towards the Atlantic.

At the other end of the old city, guarding the the very narrow isthmus, some of the old defensive wall remains.  But the centre wall and its tower had to be rebuilt in the mid 20th century when some minor demolition work to expand the width of the roadway arches brought the whole structure down.

There is a nice park running from La Caleta along the north edge of the city where exotic plants flourish, including giant trees supposedly brought to Spain by Columbus from the New World.

Well ....... it 's certainly big and old, so maybe Columbus did import it.

 And here is another. Virtually everything you can see is the one tree.

In the alley around the corner from our hostal, facing a small plaza, we found this Rococo gem and the food was world class.

80. Southern Spain - Seville

Oooohh!  Seville is lovely! 

We are back in Spain, and as you can see from the map above, Seville is in south west Spain in the region called Andalucia.

I always think the name Andalucia is so romantic and evocative. 

This is the land of sun, shade, courtyards, oranges, bull fighting, flamenco, fountains, stunning tiles and beautiful doorways.  

And Seville is one of its jewels.

We first visited Seville in 2011 as part of our circumnavigation of Spain.  At that time we stayed on one of the wide, riverside boulevards, on the edge of the old town.  This time we stayed in the square of the fine arts museum in the centre, and it was absolutely the best place to be.  Above is our square, filled with shady orange trees, tall palms, cool paving and lots of benches.

Almost next door to our little apartment was a building typical of the city with a paved, arcaded internal courtyard.

The walls of the lobby were tiled like this.

And the outer doors facing the street, closed at night, were elegantly understated.

A few paces around the next corner we found gorgeous buildings like this one in Calle Alphonso XII.

The heart of the heritage area is for pedestrians, bicycles and trams only which makes it extremely quiet and immaculately clean.

There are vast bicycle racks for commuters as well as racks of Velibs for pay-as-you-go use.

The car in this photo is either in a hotel drop-off area or has a disability access pass. There are no car parks.

The historical area is all paved like this - flat, level accessible by everyone - pedestrians, a wide bike lane inside the metal markers and the tram lines.

There are no overhead wires for the tram. It just silently glides along.

It takes on power at each stop by raising its 'antenna' to connect with the overhead charge bar.  In Bordeaux, where the tramway was also free of overhead wires, a third rail system was used; the recharging mechanisms were in the ground and accesssed via a third rail underneath the tram.

It was so hot when we were here in Spring 2011 that we missed visiting the Real Alcázar   the Royal Palace of Seville.

The Alcázar of Seville is a royal palace, originally developed by Moorish Muslim kings.

The palace is renowned as one of the most beautiful in Spain, being regarded as one of the most outstanding examples of mudéjar architecture found on the Iberian Peninsula.

The upper levels of the Alcázar are still used by the royal family as the official Seville residence and are administered by the Patrimonio Nacional.

It is the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe, and was registered in 1987 by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, along with the Seville Cathedral and the General Archive of the Indies.

This is the first of the six or seven public reception areas on the ground floor.

A little of the detail of the beautiful ceramics.

One of the doorways into the Courtyard of the Dolls.

The Courtyard of the Dolls is a small courtyard designed to organise the rooms leading to the private chambers of the palace. It owes its name to the dolls heads that decorate the arches closest to the lobby.

The beautiful columns and capitals are of Caliphal and Roman origin. 

The upper two floors were built in the 19th century.

Another of the reception areas. I think this was the one built by Queen Isabella to transact business related to the Americas and the New World.  Later, trade with the Americas picked up a good deal and a separate building was required.

I think this is called the  Patio de las Doncellas and was built by King Pedro I.

The Patio de las Doncellas was used as the set for the court of the King of Jerusalem in the 2005 movie 'The Kingdom of Heaven' by Ridley Scott.

It has a glorious reflection pool surrounded by garden, but very difficult to photograph in the strong late afternoon light.

Detail from the arches in the  Patio de las Doncellas.

In addition to the Ridley Scott movie, the Alcázar was used as a set for Lawrence of Arabia in 1962 and part of the fifth season of Game of Thrones was shot in several locations in Seville, including the Alcázar.

Looking out from the Galeria de Grutesco (Grotto Gallery) to the garden adjoining the Alcázar  and the water spout over the grotto.

Again looking out from the Galerie de Grutesco, a little further along the wall.

Paul in his favourite place - in the sun, next to water.

The gardens have undergone many changes. In the 16th century during the reign of Philip III the Italian designer Vermondo Resta introduced the Italian Mannerist style. Resta was responsible for the Galeria de Grutesco (Grotto Gallery) transforming the old Muslim wall into a loggia from which to admire the view of the palace gardens.

Very Italian. Very elegant.

And another view of the Italian style loggia built over the Moorish wall.  Just gorgeous.

An old summerhouse come garden retreat. The whole garden is planned around sun, shade and water. We visited in the late afternoon of a glorious autumn day but the temperature was still 29° so controlling sun, shade and water is vital for both people, animals and plants.

We left the Alcazar through a second door in the main wall on the square and you can see just how close the palace and the cathedral are.

The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, is the largest Gothic cathedral and the third-largest church in the world. It is also the largest cathedral in the world, as the two larger churches, the Basilica of the National Shrine of Our Lady of Aparecida and St Peter's Basilica, are not the seats of bishops. It was registered in 1987 by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, along with the Alcázar palace complex.

We spent a long afternoon here on our last visit, so this day we moved on.  

Beautiful buildings in the cathedral square.  The colours are very emblematic of southern Spain and Portugal - strong, clear and bright yellows, pinks, blues and greens.

And of course white.  You can't go past a fresh, crisp white anywhere - and here it is especially set off by dark Spanish brown, terra cotta bricks and tiles and black wrought iron. And don't forget the orange trees and the cypress. Classic!

I'm unsure what this building was but it had a deep internal courtyard, a cross over the gate and was very busy.  Many people must work there.

The Giralda is the bell tower of the Cathedral. It is the former minaret of the mosque that stood on the site under Muslim rule, and was built to resemble the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech, Morocco. It was converted into a bell tower for the cathedral after the Reconquista, although the topmost section dates from the Renaissance. It was registered in 1987 as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

And my closing thoughts are for our boys - Adam, Jack and Henry - doing things the 'old way'.