45. Lyon - La Bohème restaurant

Our first eating venture in Lyon, supposedly the grastonomic capital of France, was a tiny hole in the wall restaurant in a narrow street on the path from our apartment to the river Saône.

Called 'La Bohème', it had been operating out of this tiny space for three years and chef Alex seemed happy to describe to an interested tourist, all of the items he had prepared and stored in his narrow, glass-fronted fridge by the entrance door.

So I was won, and we returned to eat here again a few days later.

The tables were in the street.  Four rows that could sit eight people each with red checked tablecloths under orange umbrellas. I later discovered that red check cloths were quite traditional at the old bouchons.

Chef Alex and his front of house, Ben manage up to 32 covers at a time from the tiny kitchen and bar area, which is smaller than my ensuite.  Not bad going!  Though there is  scarcely space for a third person, they have some help three nights per week. 

The menu is on the blackboard which gets propped up on the wall of the school, next door.

Or on the pavement.

The wine list is half a page of affordable French wine, much of it from Burgundy of course! We chose a forgettable grenache syrah blend on our first visit and didn't do any better on our second.

My entree was a 'Confit d'aubergines, mozzarelle fondant et parmesan'.  Sliced eggplant with whipped mozzerella and parmesan in a superb fresh tomato sauce.  Oh, yes!  

Paul's entree was 'Foie gras 'La Bohème' avec confiture d'oignions', or foie gras with onion jam and toast, but he had almost demolished it before I could pass him the camera.

Second time around we were treated to a melt-in-the-mouth piece of beef on mushrooms 'Inglet de boeuf' as an amuse bouche.  Heavenly.

Paul couldn't resist the snails on his second visit, in herb butter with parma ham.

I was treated to a plate of perfect melon with port and a little parma ham on top. And more of that herby vinaigrette.

My first main was 'Pastilla de vollaile aux herbs' or parcel of small birds with herbs. Delicious although I'm not sure exactly what type of small birds I ate.  It came with mushrooms and a roast tomato which were delicious, but I could have forgone the roast potatoes.

Paul had 'Magret du canard, roti' or duck breast, roasted not fried, sitting on mushrooms with a roast tomato and spuds. Excellent green herb sauce across both dishes.

On our second visit I had a rolled shoulder of pork called 'Poitrine de couchon'. 

Paul tried another quenelle, this time 'Quenelle au brochet, a la crevette et morilles' - dumpling of pike with prawns and mushrooms in a creamy sauce.

For our first visit I chose cheese rather than a desert. I can't tell you the type of cheese because that part of the menu is hidden behind the serviette in the first menu photo above.  However, it was a sweet sheep milk cheese that I found too rich and cloying.  Paul loved it and thought it similar to a warmed and stirred camembert without the crust.

Paul stuck with tradition and had creme brûlée which he thought well done.

Second time around, we were treated to a taster plate of five of the deserts on the menu; Soupe de fraises in the tall glass (berry soup), orange and grapefruit fruit salad with passionfruit and lemon sorbet on the left, chocolate fondant with fromage frais, on the right. Out of the picture was fresh apricot crumble which we demolished before I remembered the camera. Yum!

This was great, down-to-earth regional cooking by Alex and Ben and we really enjoyed our two visits.

Here's the website  La Bohéme - Lyon

We toddled home via Place de Terraux with the grand fountain on the left and the Hotel de Ville, front and centre, looking respelendent at night.