I've never seen so many women smiling and laughing as they traversed an exhibition. The enfant-terrible of fashion seems to have that effect on everyone.
Jean Paul Gaultier, born in 1952 was a child of films, variety shows, television, the spectacular costuming of the Folies Bergère and his grandmother's beauty salon. He was already designing two collections a year in his teens and sending his drawings to the great Paris couture houses. Yves St Laurent found his use of colour too bold, but on his 18th birthday in 1970 he was employed by Pierre Cardin as an assistant. His first independent collection was in 1976 at a time when swinging London had all but eclipsed Parisian chic.
Three lifelong themes in his collections have been the marinière, the striped jersey.
Also enjoyed by Coco Chanel, Popeye, Picasso and someone called Tom of Finland. The photograph of Gaultier (above) in stripes is actually a dress suit with tails, a wing collar shirt, white bow tie and striped vest.
Secondly, the siren who embodies ultimate grace, hybridity, feminine seduction and tromp l'oeil.
Marion Cottilard wore this siren dress to the Oscars in 2008 when she won for the role of Edith Piaf in 'La Vie en Rose'.
Thirdly, the misappropriation of religious iconography as in 'interpretations of the madonna'.
Kylie in a 'madonna dress with bleeding heart' and her sailors - do you remember her stage show of many years ago?
Kate Moss in a 'madonna' head-dress.
During the 70s and 80s Gaultier repeated over and over his interpretation of the Punk Cancan, Paris meets London, class and nonconformity, classicism and rebellion - latex, leather, tartan, safety pins, lace and fishnet and most of all denim.
Tartan punk.
Skirt suits for men resembling a French waiter's apron.
One of his most loyal clients, Catherine Deneuve and her signature trench coat.
And Amy Winehouse.
And Grace Jones.
His partnership with Madonna, for whom he designed two stage shows, brought to the fore his use of conical bras, underwear worn over clothing and corset dresses.
He took latex, leather, fishnet and harnesses out of the sex shop and put them on the stage.
But they were beautiful, never vulgar.
With incredible craftsmanship. This corset dress is made entirely of pink ribbon.
And this one of tulle, lace, feathers and wheat.
A troupe-l'oeil - sequins on a stretch tulle body suit mimicking tattoos.
Naomi Campbell without wig or dress but wearing her arm bands.
Cate Blanchett wearing everything.
Every grand fashion show ends with wedding dresses but you'd have to be a brave bride to choose this one.
Even the second in line was a bit of a challenge with its conical bra top.
But it appealed to Conchita Wurst.
We left the Grand Palais still grinning as did everyone else lucky enough to see this incredible display of contemporary genius.
We crossed the road to the Petit Palais and headed for the garden terrace.
Afternoon tea in the peristyle.
And a walk down the gorgeous wrought iron staircase.
With Carpeau's 'Ugolin and his Children' at the base. Magical!
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