In 2000, Monsieur Pierre Feraud, winemaker, of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and our host for a week, had a few days off and left us to look after his cat. On his return he was very grateful for our assistance and provided us with lots of valuable tips about local points of interest in Provence, as well as a visit to his underground wine-making cave.
One of the places he recommended we visit was the Gorges of the Verdon. So in 2000, we drove along the rim of this gorge on our way to Nice. I can still remember shaking when we reached the coast. In 2015 we have come back for a look down at water-level.
Les Gorges du Verdon is in south-eastern France. It is a river canyon that is often considered to be one of Europe's most beautiful. It is about 25 kilometres long and up to 700 metres deep. It was formed by the Verdon River, which is named for its startling turquoise-green colour, one of the location's distinguishing characteristics.
At the end of the canyon, the Verdon River flows into an artificial lake, Lac de Sainte-Croix.
Because of its proximity to the French Riviera, the gorge is very popular with tourists, who can drive around its rim, rent kayaks to travel on the river, or hike. The limestone walls, which are several hundreds of metres high, attract many rock climbers.
All pleasure craft on the lake must be electric or people-powered, so paddle boat and kayak hire are very popular.
For the more adventurous, there are treks that drive you up to the head of the Gorge and you negotiate your way down 20 km or so in these smaller kayaks (with crash helmets). Kyaking is very popular all over Europe and Paul refers to them as 'the red hats and the blue hats'.
There are many pretty villages around the lake, most based on the needs of campers and caravaners.
Paul enjoyed the swimming. This is the first week of the long summer school holiday period in Europe and the resorts are not quite yet chock-a-block. That will come next week and include Bastille Day on 14 July.
We stayed 3 nights in a cute but hot hotel in Les-Salles-du-Verdone. It had a fan, wifi only in the stair wells and a fractious concierge.
I'm no fan of pizza but this crispy based version with salmon, creme fraiche and salad was delicious. I must add though, there wasn't much choice - every cafe was offering either pizza, pasta or burgers, all with fries and and all with ice-cream to follow. The only one that could claim to be a restaurant was offering meat platters. And ice-cream.
There was quite a large market in Les Salles du Verdon the morning we left. I can tell you with great accuracy that they began setting up at 5.05am. By the time we checked out of our hotel, went to the local cafe for coffee and wifi and started our rounds of the stalls, they had been at it for more than 6 hours.
I couldn't believe my eyes when Paul bought himself a pair of very nice, bright blue shorts. They go well with his navy Patmos t-shirt, the only item he purchased on our last trip in 2013, in Greece. He didn't need a t-shirt, he claimed, but he bought it to help the economy.
The market had good quality stalls. Provencal wines, olive oil soap, distilled lavender and other oils.
Fresh bread, focaccia and pizza by the slice.
Nuts and olives.
Spices and teas.
And of course, mattresses.
Forgoing the impulse to carry our own mattress atop our little car, we set off south, heading towards Menton on the Riviera, next to Italy.
Across the top of the plateau, at an altitude of about 550m with the Alps in the background we found the lavendar farms.
Acre after acre of the most beautiful colour.
And the smell wasn't bad either.
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